Bike maintenance tips from NRG Cycles

It is difficult to place a value on a reliable bike. It doesn’t need to be fancy, but a bike that lets you escape, or gets you from A to B and beyond can be priceless. And you notice how valuable your bike is when it is out of action. We recently spoke to Nick who who owns NRG Cycles, a BQ Link partner store, about a few maintenance basics you can do at home that may help extend the time between services at stores like his, and keep your bike operating safely.

Keep it clean

A clean bike is a happy bike. This isn’t about vanity, cleaning your bike also means you are doing a visual inspection over the bike more often.

“When you are cleaning your bike, make sure you look over areas like the drivetrain, frame, forks, wheels and tyres. You may not be able to spot a small issue, but even if you notice something doesn’t look like it did last time, a bike shop may be able to intervene before things get worse.”

Avoid using anything too aggressive, a bike specific cleaner is best – if a cleaner is designed to strip mud off a 4WD it might be a bit much for a bike. Car wash can be ok in a very small amount – just make sure it doesn’t have a wax additive. Only use the hose very lightly when washing it down, and avoid spraying the parts with bearings – wheel hubs, pedals, the bottom bracket and headset. Most importantly, dry those moving parts and re-lubricate the chain.

Lubricating your chain

Getting this one right might save you hundreds of dollars, or more, in the long run. A dry chain will wear too fast, and one that has too much chain lube and attracts grime will wear all the components out too fast.

‘If you ride in all-weather conditions you will want a longer-lasting chain lubricant, maybe a wax-based lube or wet lube,’ Nick advises. ‘A wet lube can run dirtier in the long run so you will need to stay on top of cleaning. Wax lubes are great but proper wax treatment can be a learning curve – it pays off in the long run. A dry lube can be easy to get along with as you apply it frequently and they are usually easy to clean up’

While choosing the right chain lube may seem like a minefield, chatting to your local mechanic about what they suggest will help. Use it as directed on the packaging and you’ll have better shifting performance, and longer lasting drivetrain parts.

Check your brake system

Worn brake pads can lead to destroyed wheels, disc rotors or even pistons if left unchecked! But before that they will also have very inconsistent braking, and may not work as you would expect when needed. A visual inspection is best.

‘On a rim brake system you can easily see if there is much material left,’ Nick tells us. ‘Most rubber brake pads have grooves cut in them, and these are a good wear indicator. If they’re gone – it’s time for new pads!’

Disc pads a different as there is much less material. ‘You may need to remove the wheel to see the pads properly,’ Nick told us. ‘If you use a small torch it should be clear. If there’s less than 0.5mm of material, or it isn’t wearing evenly, get in to a bike shop. You’ll probably need new pads and perhaps a piston clean and bleed of the brakes so they work as they are designed to.’

If you have worn through a few sets of pads, get your local shop to check for rim wear and rotor wear as well.

Tyres wheely matter

You have two contact patches with the ground – both tyres. It pays to keep an eye on them.

‘Just a quick inspection for wear, and checking pressure makes a big difference,’ says Nick. Your rear tyre will typically wear faster – through the centre for most road use, and also on the edge knobs for an off-road bike. An e-bike will likely accelerate this. Look for small cuts that may indicate it is time to visit the shop for some new tyres.

“Maintaining the right tyre pressure plays a big role in avoiding punctures, but also maintains handling and therefore safety’ Nick adds. ‘There will be a guide on the sidewall for the pressure range – most people are probably fine on the lower end of that. But tyres lose air, so make a habit of checking with a floor pump that has a gauge. Having a good pump will pay for itself many times over via flat avoidance and convenience!’

No knocks!

Your bike has bearings in the headset (for steering), the wheels, and at the bottom bracket (where the cranks go through the frame. All of these should turn freely, and with no knocks.

‘If you can move your wheels side to side in the frame or fork, or your pedals move side to side – that’s a problem that will not get better on its own! You really need to get these problems fixed before they become a bigger safety issue, or cause further damage,’ Nick confirms.

‘The headset is important for steering – if it’s loose, turning the bike will feel very vague. Lock your front brake and see if there is movement where the fork enters the frame when you push forwards and backwards. If there is – drop in to get it fixed up so you can carry on riding safely.’

And don’t forget to check your quick releases and through-axles – if they’re loose, it’s dangerous! Some can loosen off over time.

All these quick checks are easy to do as part of regular bike maintenance – they won’t change the need for servicing, but they should stop small issues becoming big ones, and prolong the life of your bike parts, and make your bike safer as well.

NRG Cycles are located in Milton, and offer 10% off all rubber (tyres and tubes) for Bicycle Queensland members. Their workshop is well-stocked with spares and their experienced mechanics can fix any (bike related) problem you present!

How to choose the right bike saddle for you

If you want to be comfortable on your bike, one of the most important decisions to consider is choosing the right bike saddle for you. The saddle your bike came with might be adequate for a short ride here and there, but when you start to ride more regularly you’ll start to notice just how important tailoring the right bike saddle for you is.

Saddle selection can affect your health and enjoyment levels on the bike, so it’s important to make an active and well-informed choice.  Why? Because a saddle with a poor ergonomic design that doesn’t suit your anatomy or your intended use (eg. mountain bike vs commute vs road race) can cause loads of problems.  These include:

  • Perineal pain (saddle sores)
  • Impotence / genital pain / numbness
  • Poor spinal posture leading to back and neck pain
  • Even knee pain can result from a poor saddle choice!

A well designed ergonomic saddle will permit a far better position on the bike leading to comfort and performance gains. Just as there are different types of bikes, there are different types of saddles.  At the extremes, the saddle you choose for a town bike is completely different to a time trial bike because your sitting posture is vastly different between bikes, resulting in very different parts of your bony pelvis being in contact with the saddle.

Comfort Saddle
Source: www.bikeexchange.com.au
Ergonomic saddle. Source: www.amazon.com

How do you choose a saddle?  Here are a few things to consider:

  • Saddle width: it needs to be wide enough to support your pelvic bones.  Wider for upright postures and narrow for racing / low postures (where the pelvic bones also narrow).
  • Padding: more for upright bikes, less for race bikes.
  • Shape: a modern ergonomic design with central relief channel and lateral groove to unload sensitive soft tissue areas (see images below).

And most importantly, you will need some test rides to decide if the saddle will work for you or not.

Left (black saddle) is almost completely flat with no ergonomic shape at all and caused the rider perineal pain. On the right (yellow saddle) notice the curved ergonomic shape which alleviates saddle pressures and pains.

Left (black saddle): Notice the direct contact between the front of the pelvis and saddle nose – ouch! Right (yellow saddle): The arrow shows the space available to keep pressure off your soft tissues – comfort!