There are nearly endless different rides we can do. Rides that take us to new places, unique vistas and places of interest. The difficulty can be getting to the start of new rides, as working within a rideable distance from home can limit your route options. And that is exactly why Queensland’s 50c fares on public transport are such a good thing – not just for multi-modal transport where the network allows – but for recreation as well.

The BQ team are loathe to load a bike into a car for a bike ride, but jumping onto the Ferny Grove line for this gravel adventure was appealing. This ride is close to 75km and in general it is a mix of back roads, rail trails, shared paths and a few roads. There is a section of dirt road and also a forest road section that can be quite steep. From Goodes Road down Whoa Boy to Banks Creek Road has multiple steep pitches with a combined descent of around 600m. Due to this section, consider this an advanced gravel ride, or moderate mountain bike ride.

THE RIDE

This ride starts at Ferny Grove station, head onto Lanita Road and the Ferny Grove to Samford Rail Trail link. This is a very gradual climb that becomes shared path, taking you to Camp Mountain and onto McLean Road South, where the memorial for the Camp Mountain Rail disaster is. 16 people lost their lives here on 5 May 1947.

Follow the route through to Samford via Camp Mountain Road and Cash Avenue. We stopped at Long Yard Larder for coffee, and the park across the road has water, toilets and even bike tools and a pump!

From Samford you need to get to the Goat Track, a one way mostly dirt road that climbs the D’Aguilar range. We took some of the pony trails along the South Pine River. These form a network across the Samford Valley, connecting lots of roads and parks. They are multi-use so be mindful of horses, walkers or dogs off lead. We took Mt O’Reilly Road past the Samford Showgrounds and to the base of the Goat Track, which is open again after extensive repairs.

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With a 20kmh speed limit, the consistent gradient makes this one of the best climbs across the whole D’Aguilar Range. Turn right at the top onto Nebo-Mt Glorious Road, and continue up to the Goodes Road tip. It’s time to go off-road. Through the tall forest the trail is wide and easy to follow – at Dundas Road Bush Camp you may fill your bottles, but treat the water. Take the path straight ahead – this is still Dundas Road.

The trail descends with some steeper sections, rising again to follow the ridgeline. At the next intersection stay left – to the right gains private property. The descent will mostly have one good line, and still has a series of rises, until it tips off to the right and you’re on Whoa Boy. This section is known for the water bars and demands full attention. For an experienced mountain biker it will be a lot of fun. An experienced gravel rider will enjoy the challenge. A loaded bikepacker may find it a nightmare. This is the most difficult section based on the pitch, so if you’d rather walk – walk. It’s only a few sections that are a couple of hundred meters long. Mostly it’s a lot of fun!

At the very bottom you end up in a clearing – frequently it is over grown but turn right. If you end in a creek, turn back! You’ve gone too far. The trail carries on through a couple of creek crossings to a forest entry gate with a horse step over. You have arrived in Banks Creek.

Stick to the well-formed gravel road and pedal on towards Fernvale! There is one rise but the route opens up a lot more with views back to the range and beyond into the Brisbane River Valley. While it’s a very quiet area do be aware of oncoming vehicles and stick left. Follow the signs to Fernvale, across the river and into town – we stopped at the new Splityard Social café, but were too early for hot chips… the coffees and sausage rolls were still welcomed.

From here you follow the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail towards Wulkuraka. The Brassal Bikeway leads you from the trail head to the station, and you can even use it to get to Ipswich station instead if you’d rather skip the train change.

How to Get There

Ferny Grove is at the end of the Ferny Grove line. Use the Translink website to plan your route – and check line closures, the extra ride back to Brisbane might not be appreciated by your ride buddies if you don’t…

When to go

We rode the route in early August. March through to November will likely be great. Avoid the route after extended wet weather, and avoid the peak of summer given the length of the ride.

Eating and drinking

Samford Village has a number of choices, as does Fernvale. But stock up for the gap in-between.

The D’Aguilar Range west of Brisbane is full of delights for bike riders and outdoors fans. From the rainforest walks near Mt Nebo, Mt Glorious and of course Mt Mee, through to gorgeous rock pools to explore. With few roads crossing the range, much of the exploration needs to be done off-road, on a series of old forest roads. Many are in exceptional condition, some are lost as the forest slowly recovers from being aggressively harvested.

This loop, as shown, starts in Highvale, previously known as Highlands, near the base of the Goat Track in the Samford Valley. But depending where you are coming from, Samford Village is a more logical point to start if driving to Samford Valley. Alternatively, catch an early train to Ferny Grove and take the Ferny Grove Cycle Link through to Samford to join the route.

Much of this route is on the road, with care taken to avoid as much busy roads as possible. BQ recommends day time running lights when on the road. While only 10-15km is truly off-road, you still need an off-road capable bike. A gravel bike is fine, however the climbs are steep. A good cross-country mountain bike actually works very well on this route.

The ride

We started from the end of Macs Road off Mt Glorious Road – you can park near the cricket ground. We tackled the route anti-clockwise, which backloads the climbing into the route. If you want to climb first, climb the Goat Track to get atop the D’Aguilar Range – as opposed to following the route which is traced from descending Mt Glorious Road.

We rode behind Samford Valley, past the Showgrounds and along Mt O’Reilly Road and Greggs Road, turning onto the brief rail trail tha heads to Yugar. This can be wet after heavy rain, and has a steep climb out next to where the old rail tunnel is. It’s now a bat research centre! Although previously the cutting, on the other side, was used as a tip. This rail line to Dayboro and on to Petrie was closed in 1955. Much of the corridor has been resumed by private land owners so unfortunately a rail trail from Ferny Grove to Petrie will never be possible.

Join the road to Dayboro, which has fair shoulder and a good road surface until Winn Road. While the speed limit has recently been revised, it is still a fast road. The view to your left has the twin peaks of Mt Samson, and the range behind holds a couple more rides for adventurous mountain bikers and gravel riders. This route will track the ridgeline behind the ridge you can see.

Between Winn Road and Kriesch Road the road ends at the white line. This is the most exposed section for riders – a frequent riding route but best ridden with a high level of awareness of other road users.

Turning left onto Kriesch Road you climb up and get a great view over Lake Samsonvale and to the coast, before descending back to the main road. You can bypass this sidetrip but it does take you away from traffic. On the main road again you are back to having a good shoulder, and shortly turn left onto Kobble Creek road. Climb up the valley and turn left onto Watson Road toward Armstrong Creek Road, and follow through farmland, to Lees Crossing Road, over weirs and into Dayboro via Laidlaw St.

Henry Bradley Park has a toilet, water – and even a mini pump track if you’re so inclined. Otherwise Dayboro has the Dayboro Bakery, a super market, more toilets and water and several cafes. This is your last chance to resupply for food and water until Mt Glorious Village. So fill up accordingly.

Leave Dayboro past the pub and up McKenzie street, before turning left down Laceys Creek Road at the top of the hill. Ignore the ‘No Through Road’ sign – that won’t apply where you’re going!

The road climbs up the valley alongside Laceys Creek and through larger land holdings. To your right you can see the D’Aguilar National Park along the ridgelines, and you may spot Kluvers Tower in the distance – a telecommunications tower off Range Road, surrounded by rainforest. You can amend this route by taking the right hand up Wirth Road once past Costello Road, and going past Kluvers. It is not a short cut and is not easy – but quite spectacular.

As the road narrows stay aware of oncoming traffic, as the road is barely one lane wide. Once across the new causeway, turn right to stay on Laceys Creek Road. Soon enough you are climbing, and will turn right into the climb at a small dirt carpark. This is a popular point for motorbikes to unload and also a carpark for the singletrack descent that finishes nearby – known as both the Dayboro DH and Laceys Creek enduro trail. Turn right and climb upthrough the National Park gates – this is a sustained climb on Range Road. Beware of 4WD and motorbike traffic – or mountain bike shuttles.

Once you pass the singletrack entrance at the top, you have some reprieve and typically cooler air through a remnant rainforest pocket. The view into the valley to your left shows how much you have climbed, and the hill in front of you is known as Bulls Knob – you’ll be flanking that shortly.

At the gate, climb over. the dirt road continues to the right and is another route option to Kluvers, Mt Mee, Mt Pleasant and even Kilcoy and Jimna – adventures for another day.

This is the point to tell you – you are not at the top. The firetrail is overall in excellent condition, it just has soft grass which makes the next section pretty tiring. You are mostly climbing until close to the corner of Mt Sim Jue Road. You really are tracing a ridge line, so expect plenty of ups and downs now. There are no washouts, water bars or gates. There is occasionally some rockfall and blowdown and the odd rogue cow or startled deer – so pay attention.

You will have a view to Lake Wivenhoe, and after more ups and downs and ups agains – you climb towards the gate on the Northbrook Parkway. This is just below Wivenhoe Outlook on the dark side of Mt Glorious. Pop your lights back on, jump the fence and get pedalling.

The road climb tops out near Tennison Woods at close to 780m, and you then return to Mt Glorious Village. There are toilets at the Maila picnic area (and tank water, which the signs don’t recommend drinking). The cafe in the village has drinks and food.

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Leaving the village descend down the road, and turn left into the road descent. The Mt Glorious descent is one of those descents where most people have had one incident or another, minor or otherwise. It is steep, sustained, and can have rapid changes of camber. Some riders have lost their lives here. Ride well within your limits, the limits of your tyres and your brakes and remain aware of cars behind you, and those climbing the hill and perhaps cutting corners.

Once in the lower section, on a hot day it can be worth a quick swim. If you see room for cars to pull over, that’s the sign that a nice swimming hole is in the gorge.

Otherwise, finish the road descent and congratulate yourself on completeing a difficult yet satisfying route to explore part of the D’Aguilar Range. Plus it makes a cool loop on any ride sharing app! While this route has so much road, the off road section is both demanding and rewarding, and that can make it a favourite for some riders. There are many variants to this core loop – and doing it clockwise v counterclockwise can be adapted to suit the seasons (and heat of the day) and how busy different roads will be.

Reminders for riders

This is a remote ride beyond Laceys Creek. While the trail is typically in exceptional condition, it doesn’t get much traffic. Take the water and food you need, along with the spares and knowledge of how to use them. On top of that, take a small first aid kit.

READ: How to pack the essentials for a bike ride

On this ride, ‘the hard bit’ is also the dry bit. Expect the off road section to take longer than you think and carry plenty of water. While this may be a two bottle ride (with Dayboro refill) in winter, two bottles in summer is really pushing it.

Some of the roads used in this route have poor lines of sight. While bike riders can legally ride two abreast, a few sections here may be best ridden single file – a radar light is also handy to alert you to closing traffic.

This route starts and finishes in Linville on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, and uses much of the rail trail between Linville and Yarraman, while exploring back routes behind Blackbutt. It is a great gravel bike ride but also suited to a mountain bike. At about 100km with 1284m of climbing, it will likely be at least a half day ride. But you do finish with the run off the range from Benarkin back to Linville, so it is a fast finish!

This route is a suggestion from Chevonne Arrowsmith, owner of the Rail Trail Refuge, Linville. It is one of her favourite rides to do to explore the areas beyond the rail trail. If you’re a Bicycle Queensland member, you can stay for 3 consecutive nights for the price of 2 between Sunday and Thursday. Contact Chevonne if you want to book this offer: hello@railtrailrefuge.com.au

Riding the route

Starting in Linville, head north along the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, through Benarkin and onto Blackbutt. This is where you will divert from the BVRT. Follow Hart St across the D’Aguilar Highway. Turn right into Hayne Kite Millar Road, this is about 24.5km from Linville.

This is a slight rise, moving from bitumen to dirt, with some beautiful old Bunya Pines on the property on the left.

After 3km take a very hard left onto Nukku road. It’s cruly sharp, on a downhill into an uphill. You have been warned! This dirt road is the high point of the route at about 500m. You’re about to lose a lot of that, with a right hand turn into a forest trail at 30.5km, this is just before Nukku Road joins Blackbutt Crows Nest Road. This fantastic section of gravel riding is in plantation forest – some still standing, and some cleared. Watch out for kangaroos on the descents!

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The route turns right onto Mort Douglas Road, with the BVRT insight. You could easily shortcut to head back from here if you were having any problems, but we suggest sticking to the route, turning left onto Gilla Road and left again onto Kooralgin Gilla Road. This stretch is longer through rural properties, with a return to asphlat at times. At the 46.5km mark you turn right onto Yarraman Kooralgin Road, before ducking back into the forest at Yarraman Cemetary, at about 50.4km into the ride. The steep descent and climb leads you to the D’Aguilar Highway, where you cross to ride through the back of Yarraman towards Ben Smith Street and the start of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail.

With full water bottles and pockets, it’s time to get home, following the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail back to Blackbutt, Benarkin and onto Linville to finish.